While Lexington, Kentucky, may not be as internationally renowned as New York or Los Angeles, every year it becomes a destination location thanks to the Thoroughbred industry. There is a reason Keeneland bills its September sale (which starts on September 13) as ‘the world’s yearling sale’ — clientele from around the globe arrive in Lexington in search of the next great champion.
The marathon sale keeps buyers and sellers alike extremely busy. However, everyone still has to eat, sleep, and perhaps, if you’re lucky, make a little bit of merry. That’s when Lexington, the heart of a county with a population of about 325,000 people, can surprise visitors with its depth of quality.
Those in town for the sale are probably going to get their fill of horses, but one of the most commonly asked questions by tourists is “where can I go to pet a horse?” With farms and other industry stalwarts working together to create Horse Country, that question has become easier to answer for those looking to tour almost any aspect of the Thoroughbred industry.
Additionally, the Kentucky Horse Park celebrates the history of man’s relationship with horse through education, exhibition, engagement and competition. While its focus is on all breeds of horse, it is also where one finds the Hall of Champions, the retirement home for the likes of Da Hoss, Funny Cide, Go For Gin, and Point Given.
It is also the final resting place of Bold Forbes, Cigar, Forego, and John Henry, among others.
Then there is Old Friends, which calls itself the “living-history museum of horseracing” and attracts nearly 20,000 visitors annually. Its current star resident is champion Silver Charm, and it is home to a number of other notable runners. Their popularity helps raise funds for the less successful Thoroughbreds who also reside there.
In addition to horses, another local claim to fame is bourbon, America’s Native Spirit. Contrary to popular belief, bourbon does not have to be made in Kentucky to be legally be called bourbon — although Kentuckians may joke that, if you’re looking for good bourbon, it does.
That said, the vast majority of the world’s bourbon, 95 percent, is made in Kentucky, and in 1964, a Congressional resolution declared the spirit an indigenous product of the United States, meaning no other country can call its spirits bourbon.
Anyone who is curious as to what actually makes bourbon, well, bourbon will be welcomed with open arms (and most likely a sample or two) at multiple distilleries across Kentucky. There are 14 unique bourbon distilleries within 45 miles of downtown Lexington alone, and yes, it is true there are more bourbon barrels in the state than people.
Kentucky has gone all-in on bourbon’s resurgent popularity, and the Kentucky Bourbon Trail is a registered trademark of the Kentucky Distillers’ Association. The Bourbon Trail is a great place to start for suggested itineraries, history lessons, and to check the latest visiting rules at different distilleries as everyone continues to adjust to a Covid world.
One of the reasons touring distilleries has become so popular is that liking bourbon is not a requirement for enjoying the experience. The drive to get to many of the distilleries is stunningly beautiful, history buffs can learn about distilleries that managed to stay open during prohibition for “medicinal reasons,” and sometimes a sample of more unique products (like Buffalo Trace’s bourbon cream — think Bailey’s but with bourbon) catches visitors off guard.
Those wanting to experience the beauty of Kentucky without the bourbon do not have to look any further than Old Frankfort Pike, which is conveniently located right behind Keeneland.
Recently added to the Federal Highway Administration’s list of scenic byways, the road has long been a standard of beauty for locals. A 20-minute drive with the windows down can relax an overtaxed brain.
Start at the roundabout featuring a larger-than-life bronze sculpture of Secretariat, and drive into neighboring Woodford County. Limestone fences and legendary horse farms like Darby Dan, Stonestreet, Three Chimneys, and Airdrie Stud, among others, flank either side of the road. Just be mindful that the speed limit of 55 mph is higher than one might expect and that further down the road, deer are very common.
Hungry drivers should take the time to stop at one of the most popular spots on Old Frankfort Pike — Wallace Station, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. It has had a varied past, but it became a delicious deli in 2003 and is part of local celebrity chef Ouija Michel’s culinary portfolio.
Michel focused on farm-to-table before it was the popular thing to do, and her restaurants have purchased more than $3 million of Kentucky-grown meats, dairy products, fruits and vegetables over the last 18 years. Her family of local restaurants also includes Holly Hill Inn, Zim’s Café, Smithtown Seafood, Windy Corner Market, Honeywood, and the Midway Bakery. They run the gamut from casual to fine dining, so choose accordingly.
Smithtown Seafood is actually attached to another Lexington downtown hot spot in West 6th Brewing. Located in what was once the Rainbo Bread Factory, West 6th makes about 30 types of beer throughout the year, and Smithtown feeds the clientele who come to relax and raise a pint or two.
For those who are not into seafood, just across the street is County Club, which specializes in smoked meats. It is also known for its poutine — a Canadian guilty pleasure featuring French fries, cheese curds, gravy, scallion, and the optional add-on of smoked brisket or pork.
Horsemen are no strangers to some of the other culinary delights that can be found downtown. Dudley’s has been a longtime favorite, while Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse is an experience unto itself and Carson’s take on traditional fare has made it a go-to.
Away from downtown, Malone’s is a beloved steak house staple, while Merrick Inn is also an institution where many a horse deal has been made.
Just off downtown is the Distillery District, which is a bit of a one-stop shop for indulgence. It originally was home to the historic James E Pepper Distillery, which began making bourbon in 1879, but the site was abandoned in 1958. It wasn’t until 2008 that the effort was made to revitalize the area.
The distillery is up and running once more, and tours are available, but there is also a bounty of food, beverage, and music taking over the property as well.
Eat New York-style pizza in an old Kentucky distillery at Goodfellas Pizzeria (and leave room for the monster bread stick), try uniquely local small batch flavors (such as bourbon honey or Kentucky blackberry and buttermilk) at Crank & Boom Craft Ice Cream, hit up Ethereal Brewing for local beer (it has its own dedicated yeast lab), eat and drink your fill at Elkhorn Tavern (always a new cocktail to try while serving up some staple Kentucky fare like burgoo), check out Wise Bird Cider or the Break Room (for the cider and dive bar enthusiasts out there), release some tension at Battle Axes and (legally) throw some axes, and more.
Plus, there is The Burl, a popular music venue featuring both local and national acts.
Of course, not every evening has to be a drawn-out affair. Takeaway has its place, and Lexington has no shortage of delicious but quicker options. Some local favorites include Sahara Mediterranean Cuisine (which closes when it runs out of food, so might be best as a lunch option), Masala Indian Cuisine (look no further when you are in need of naan), Pho BC (quality Vietnamese fare), and El Taquero (street tacos are the claim to fame here).
As far as where to lay your head down at the end of the day, Lexington offers plenty of options there as well. From the swanky and eclectic 21C, which comes with its own art museum, to the Campbell House with its racehorse theme décor, to the standard chain options, there are plenty of conveniently located hotels as well as rentals to consider.